Charger Suggestions for E-tank

It is a manual charger, which is what you want. Not familiar with the brand, so can't vouch for its quality. You may be able to catch a name brand one on sale for less, though.
 
All I ever use is a computer power supply. Have a stack of them here but still on the same one after a year.
 
Just don't go higher than 12v,I have tried 24, and 36 to see what happens, too much heat ,that was hoter, than the water heater at home,one tip to test your old charger is unplug charger from the wall and connect the clamps to a good battery, red+, black- ,it shouldn't spark,and the last test with battery fully charged,turn charger on and youll see the needle go up and slowly goes down OK you have a good charger.Save that money for an other skillet
 
I'll probably keep it for now. It's a Silver Beauty from the 60s. I just need to replace the cords. I have electrical tape covering all the cracked cords. I need to get a bigger tub and some egg crate light diffusers to protect the graphite anodes.

How do you use a computer power supply? Sounds interesting.
 
JBaur said:
How do you use a computer power supply? Sounds interesting.
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Basic premise of electrolysis is a 12V source with a good steady supply of amperage. The current PSU I use can max out at 28 amps, more than enough. Any 12V power supply should work - at least in theory.


I've pared back 6" all of the yellow wires (12V) - there are 10 of them on mine, the more the better to handle the amperage - and an equal amount of the black (ground). Do not use the yellow wires with the black stripe, cut those off. Cut off any other color leads other than yellow, black and the one green.

Wind the copper of all of the yellow leads together and solder into a ring, something to clamp your booster cables to - or you can clamp on a set of alligator clamps. Do the same with all the ground leads, wind them together and solder and add a clamp if you wish. Do not let them touch of course.

The green lead is for the push button switch on your computer, tie the green lead to a black lead to short it - otherwise you would need a "normally open switch" to close it and turn the power supply on. Now you can control the power supply with the main switch on the power supply.

That's pretty much it, you have your 12V and ground just like on the battery charger. Hook them up the same with any other electrolysis system. Cheap electrolysis and works great.
 
JBaur said:
Thanks. Sounds like a good alternative to a charger.
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Here it is in action... Not pretty but works very well.

The power supply itself, it's capable of 28 amps, plenty of juice for electo. This power supply has a blown 3.3V, won't power up a computer but the 12V is fine.

normal_electro2.jpg


The hookup.

normal_electro3.jpg


That is 1/2" steel plate, and look at the activity... I should clamp an ammeter on it one day to see what amp's it's kicking out.

normal_electro1.jpg
 
It would be interesting to see what your e-tank resistance is. I bet that if you measure the voltage across the cell (anode -> cathode(work piece)), it is between 1.5 & 3.0 volts. And then measure the current into the tank. P=EI, R=E/I
 
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