Hairline crack verification?

C

CharlieK

Member
I have a #8 Dutch oven lid with what appears to be a hairline crack going from the edge to about 3/8" up, visible on both sides. How would I know for sure whether it is an actual crack in the iron or if it was a crack in the mold that transferred its image to the iron?
I'd heard/read that cracks in CI can be detected by striking with a metal object to hear if it "rings like a bell" or not, so I took a lid from a different DO & struck it with a spoon, then did the same with the lid that appears cracked. The "good" lid rang at a higher pitch than the one that appears cracked, but both reverberated for several seconds after being struck.
The reason I suspect it may be a print from a cracked mold is that another DO lid (a #7) I own has what appears to be a crack in the top (it shows on both sides of the lid and is offset enough to catch a fingernail on) but I've discovered since that it is an impression from the mold.
 
CharlieK said:
I have a #8 Dutch oven lid with what appears to be a hairline crack going from the edge to about 3/8" up, visible on both sides. How would I know for sure whether it is an actual crack in the iron or if it was a crack in the mold that transferred its image to the iron?
I'd heard/read that cracks in CI can be detected by striking with a metal object to hear if it "rings like a bell" or not, so I took a lid from a different DO & struck it with a spoon, then did the same with the lid that appears cracked. The "good" lid rang at a higher pitch than the one that appears cracked, but both reverberated for several seconds after being struck.
The reason I suspect it may be a print from a cracked mold is that another DO lid (a #7) I own has what appears to be a crack in the top (it shows on both sides of the lid and is offset enough to catch a fingernail on) but I've discovered since that it is an impression from the mold.
Click to expand...

Well is not easy how to explain if is one or an other with out of pic,but what I suggest is look closely with a magnifying glass, don't expect to see thru the crack and.compare both pieces you are talking about.
 
EdgarLopez said:
Well is not easy how to explain if is one or an other with out of pic,but what I suggest is look closely with a magnifying glass, don't expect to see thru the crack and.compare both pieces you are talking about.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input, Edgar. I wasn't expecting to see through the crack, just trying to get a sense of the "ring" test. It would probably be much more definitive if I had an identical (size & maker) lid to ring them side-by-side to see if they sound the same. I was expecting a dull "thud" with the #8 (Martin) lid that appears cracked but it reverberates for several seconds, just like my #8 Griswold lid does, although the Gris rings at a higher pitch than the Martin.
In the case of my #7 Wapak lid, when I took delivery of of it, I immediately noticed what appeared to be a curved crack about an inch or so long on top that also appeared on the inside. There's even enough offset on top to catch a fingernail on as well. I was very disappointed that I hadn't noticed it in the pictures the seller had provided, and the seller hadn't mentioned it. Then when I looked closely (magnifying glass) at a picture of tbe #7 Wapak lid shown in tbe blue book, I could see the exact same crack, as well as other identical casting anomalies, in it. So I know it's not a crack, simply a casting flaw from a cracked mold.
This makes me wonder if my Martin lid is really cracked, which is why I'm trying to get a sense of what to listen for in a "ring" test.
 
Charlie, you might want to let the ring test go. I thought it was great when I discovered it but it did not prove itself out. One needs two exact same pieces for comparison and if they came from the same company one has to hope they didn't change the mold or the CI formula. I tried to use it to differentiate manufactures for unmarked pieces verses marked pieces and it all went to hell.

Other than determining Lodge had deeper tone than Griswold or Wagner due to more carbon in the Lodge, I found I could get severely confused between different pieces. I think of it as another test now, not an answer.

Although you may have nailed one it seems like a real long shot you could nail two with cracks in the mold.

Hilditch
 
W. Hilditch said:
Charlie, you might want to let the ring test go. I thought it was great when I discovered it but it did not prove itself out. One needs two exact same pieces for comparison and if they came from the same company one has to hope they didn't change the mold or the CI formula. I tried to use it to differentiate manufactures for unmarked pieces verses marked pieces and it all went to hell.

Other than determining Lodge had deeper tone than Griswold or Wagner due to more carbon in the Lodge, I found I could get severely confused between different pieces. I think of it as another test now, not an answer.

Although you may have nailed one it seems like a real long shot you could nail two with cracks in the mold.

Hilditch
Click to expand...

After ringing all my #8 lids (don't know why I didn't earlier), the Martin rings at the lowest tone, so even though it reverberates, I'll assume it's cracked. That won't keep me from cooking with it!
 
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the tone of a ring dependent on the shape of the lid? Or the purity of the CI?

Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top