Hi all, I'm new to the forum and e-tanks. I have the tank and anodes set up. Now to the battery charger. I was given a 36 volt and up to 36 amp charger. It is meant to charge golf carts. It's automatic but the manual shows how to jumper over the controller so that it becomes manual. Is this suitable or should I continue to search for a manual 12 volt? Any thoughts appreciated. I have a soft spot for any cast iron since I worked in the pattern shop of an automotive cast iron foundry.
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New Guy to E-tanks
- Thread starter Kent H
- Start date
I've seen videos of people using really high amp power sources to do electro, and while they work, it's a bit of overkill-- in operation, the tanks look like they're literally boiling. When you say "up to 36 amp" I assume you're saying it's adjustable. As little as 2 amps will work; 6 to 10 is the norm.
I agree with Doug D. I have a small manual charger that is switchable between 2 amps and 6 amps and both work well... and I have issues if I'm doing a lot of pieces and running the charger for a long time at the higher amp setting... either with wires and connections heating up or the charger itself overheating and cycling off and on because of a thermal limit built into the circuitry. even if I run a small fan blowing on it. I can't imagine what a 36 amp would do if run for several hours.
but I would add that it also probably depends on other factors... the size of the etank, the number of pieces being done at one time, the amount of surface area of the anodes, etc. I have seen people using those big aluminum frame things with a heavy plastic inner tank and those things can hold well in excess of 200 gallons and if lined around the outside with anodes can do 6 or 8 pieces at the same time... and in that case 36 amps might work assuming you had good connections on everything... but if there are any sloppy connections or corrosion or any other cause for impedance you might end up with melted wires or connectors.
but I would add that it also probably depends on other factors... the size of the etank, the number of pieces being done at one time, the amount of surface area of the anodes, etc. I have seen people using those big aluminum frame things with a heavy plastic inner tank and those things can hold well in excess of 200 gallons and if lined around the outside with anodes can do 6 or 8 pieces at the same time... and in that case 36 amps might work assuming you had good connections on everything... but if there are any sloppy connections or corrosion or any other cause for impedance you might end up with melted wires or connectors.
Just an update. I got a 12 volt manual charger and it works well. I've cleaned several small pieces and am very pleased with the results. Now I'm trying a large tea kettle.The tank is a 50 gallon garbage can with 40 gallons of water. I'm using washing soda at the recommended rate. With the charger set on 12 volt the amp meter will bury itself as if I have a short. At 6 volt 6 amp it works fine. The kettle is close to the anodes but not touching. The anodes are 4 pieces of sheet stainless wired together. Any thoughts on why 12 volt at either 6 amp or 2 amp the meter shows a short. Could I have it too close to the anodes?
Russell S.
Member
I have had a similar experience. Mine was drawing too many amps when I switched from regular skillets to larger size pieces like a long griddle. I actually blew the safety shunt fuse on the battery charger. I then learned to reduce the number of anodes and it would lower the amperage. I had 4 pieces of metal and disconnected two and it brought it down to an acceptable range.