-
If a web search for the answer to your cast iron cookware question has brought you directly to this forum, the information you seek may be covered in one of the many reference topics featured on the main website.
Quick Links: · Main Website · How to Identify Unmarked Pans · All About Cleaning & Seasoning · Reproductions & Counterfeits · Commonly-Used Terms
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Oil, Time and Temps
- Thread starter DReedy
- Start date
Lard or Crisco, preheat to 200F, wipe on, wipe off, 300F for 20 minutes, wipe again, 400F for 90 minutes. Not saying that's the perfect recipe but it works for me and no stickiness. Basically I started with Jeff Rogers' method and found that I didn't need the full two hours so reduced the time at 400F to 90 minutes.
Hi There,
There are 2 major causes of a sticky situation, (1.) there was excess oil left on the pan, it was not wiped dry enough and or (2.) The oven temperature was too low and or not heated long enough.
You will get many different suggestions as to how to do it, because there is no 100% correct way to do it; everyone experiments a little and eventually finds out what works for them.
Here is what I have tried, what worked, what didn’t work and what I have learned:
1.) When I first attempted to restore cast iron I searched the net and found an article that praised the virtues of using flaxseed oil; it was well written and seemed to have a scientific explanation as to why it was the best way to do it. I attempted it, I followed the instructions exactly with high hopes………but it was a failure, it chipped and pealed and turned me off trying to restore CI, at least for a while.
2.) I started the hobby again, researched more, learned how to clean using lye and or electrolysis and that you should use an oil with a high smoke point and heat it past it’s smoke point for up to an hour or so. I learned that is was most important to wipe the pan clean after you oiled it and that blue paper towels were good as they were lint free and I did that. I was pre heating the pan up to 200*, applying the oil and wiping it what I thought was very dry looking and then heating it up to 475 – 500* for an hour or so. However after several coats of oiling and heating I noticed a couple of my pans were blotchy and some of the lettering was full of dried oil………what the!!!
3.) I did more research and found this Forum and have learned a bunch! Here is what I have learned that works for me: (a.) once you have heated it up to 200* then applied a liberal amount of oil, it is very, very important to get as much of it off as possible and old t-shirts works much better than blue paper towels, (b.) once you have wiped it down, heat it up again to 300* for a while then take it out of the oven and wipe it down again; you won’t believe there was that much oil left on after the first rub down. Then it is back in the oven at 475 - 500* for an hour to two hours or so, (c.) use something like a tooth brush to clean out the lettering so it does not pool in there and fill up.
4.) I am now using Criso and so far it is working great for me. I usually put on a minimum of 3 coats and sometimes more.
Hope this helps!!
Cheers!!!.......
There are 2 major causes of a sticky situation, (1.) there was excess oil left on the pan, it was not wiped dry enough and or (2.) The oven temperature was too low and or not heated long enough.
You will get many different suggestions as to how to do it, because there is no 100% correct way to do it; everyone experiments a little and eventually finds out what works for them.
Here is what I have tried, what worked, what didn’t work and what I have learned:
1.) When I first attempted to restore cast iron I searched the net and found an article that praised the virtues of using flaxseed oil; it was well written and seemed to have a scientific explanation as to why it was the best way to do it. I attempted it, I followed the instructions exactly with high hopes………but it was a failure, it chipped and pealed and turned me off trying to restore CI, at least for a while.
2.) I started the hobby again, researched more, learned how to clean using lye and or electrolysis and that you should use an oil with a high smoke point and heat it past it’s smoke point for up to an hour or so. I learned that is was most important to wipe the pan clean after you oiled it and that blue paper towels were good as they were lint free and I did that. I was pre heating the pan up to 200*, applying the oil and wiping it what I thought was very dry looking and then heating it up to 475 – 500* for an hour or so. However after several coats of oiling and heating I noticed a couple of my pans were blotchy and some of the lettering was full of dried oil………what the!!!
3.) I did more research and found this Forum and have learned a bunch! Here is what I have learned that works for me: (a.) once you have heated it up to 200* then applied a liberal amount of oil, it is very, very important to get as much of it off as possible and old t-shirts works much better than blue paper towels, (b.) once you have wiped it down, heat it up again to 300* for a while then take it out of the oven and wipe it down again; you won’t believe there was that much oil left on after the first rub down. Then it is back in the oven at 475 - 500* for an hour to two hours or so, (c.) use something like a tooth brush to clean out the lettering so it does not pool in there and fill up.
4.) I am now using Criso and so far it is working great for me. I usually put on a minimum of 3 coats and sometimes more.
Hope this helps!!
Cheers!!!.......
I use whatever is in the cabinet. I've used store brand shortening mostly, some olive oil, some canola oil and even Pam spray. I heat to 250 and either apply or wipe down depending on what state the piece is in, then 45 minutes at 500 degrees. I use 500 because it's easy to remember and it's above any "smoke" point I need. I've done over a hundred pieces now, no issues.
Everyone seems to have their own method. I personally use Crisco to season. The first time I seasoned I didn't get past the smoke point of the oil. The skillet was non stick but the more I read about seasoning the experts on cast iron suggested going to or past the smoke point of the oil. I seasoned another skillet and went past the smoke point. The skillet is darker but I am not sure it is anymore non stick than the below smoke point method. First time I seasoned at 400 degrees. The second time I seasoned at 500 degrees because the smoke point for Crisco is 490 degrees. I am not sure if you are new to this site but these people know cast iron and they will steer you in the right direction.
I personally have used just about everything to season until I stumbled across the 'flaxseed oil process'
It can't be 'sitting on the shelf' or 'what I have available', but I've turned some newer (rough, mass production pieces) into smooth almost non stick pans....like the old GOOD stuff.
The newer the piece, the longer the process however....but for me it's the best coating out there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It can't be 'sitting on the shelf' or 'what I have available', but I've turned some newer (rough, mass production pieces) into smooth almost non stick pans....like the old GOOD stuff.
The newer the piece, the longer the process however....but for me it's the best coating out there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk