All the information I can find is what I'd consider a "make - shift" e-tank. If you could build your dream system how would you do it? I use a lye tank because it holds a dozen pieces at a time. If I can build an e-tank that would do the same I'd be in CI restoration heaven. Is there a commercial size dream design out there?
-
If a web search for the answer to your cast iron cookware question has brought you directly to this forum, the information you seek may be covered in one of the many reference topics featured on the main website.
Quick Links: · Main Website · How to Identify Unmarked Pans · All About Cleaning & Seasoning · Reproductions & Counterfeits · Commonly-Used Terms
The ultimate E-Tank
- Thread starter Lloyd B
- Start date
If you are changing 120VAC into 12VDC, then you have RV Power Converters, not Inverters.
Inverters change the 12VDC power from the batteries into 120VAC which allows you to run your normal plug in the wall items.
Converters change 120VAC into 12VDC to run your 12 volt LED lights, and other DC powered items.
You are correct, the sticker says inverter but you are correct.
I follow this guys you tube channel He's pretty serious about his cast iron cooking and collecting. I think his e tank is one of the nicest I've seen. Here is the link to his 1st video of 3 he made for the e tank build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=at8U6AAoqLA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=at8U6AAoqLA
Don't need the milk crate or anything else as a barrier. It's not like the pieces are moving around in there. Anything you put between the piece you're trying to clean and the anode is going to reduce the efficiency of cleaning and may produce a shadow effect. The process works much better on "line of sight."
W. Hilditch
Active member
As I watched all three videos I was wishing he would have put the skillet in a lye bath first. There would have been much less scum and the e-bath would have been quicker.
Hilditch
Hilditch
Mike Green
Member
Humorous discussion about inverter/converter since neither is an electrical term.
You want DC from AC, just get a big full wave bridge rectifier and you're there. Of course, 120VAC RMS makes ~180VDC peak and will supply the AC line current (current is the killer), which will light stuff up if you're not careful. Current limiting would be a next consideration.
People use battery chargers to reduce voltage and limit current. I imagine more current, faster cleaning.
You want DC from AC, just get a big full wave bridge rectifier and you're there. Of course, 120VAC RMS makes ~180VDC peak and will supply the AC line current (current is the killer), which will light stuff up if you're not careful. Current limiting would be a next consideration.
People use battery chargers to reduce voltage and limit current. I imagine more current, faster cleaning.
Electrical terms? AC inverters and converters are electronic devices. An RV power converter does the same thing a manual battery charger does, convert 120VAC to 12VDC. An RV converter can source a lot more current than a battery charger. The trade-off is that it costs more.
So since I have four I'm not using it's a good plan?
---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 PM ----------
So my plan on two rows of three wouldn't be a good idea?
While you can stack as many pans as will fit in a lye bath and have them all get clean, trying to do the same with an electro tank is going to be more like the law of diminishing returns. Even if you have 360* anode coverage, pans blocking each other are just going to slow things down.
I really like this design and have based mine on it:
Pt 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=at8U6AAoqLA
Pt 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Md5xzjhPsS0
Pt 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=at8U6AAoqLA
Pt 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Md5xzjhPsS0
The process is largely line-of-sight. Obstructions closer to the piece being cleaned are more likely to leave "shadows" than those further away or up against the anode. Having said that, the crud and rust are removed from the side of the pan facing away from my single, graphite plate anode just fine, but just not as fast as the side facing it.
He was using the basket to make certain the pan didn't make contact with the "anode" sheets. Mine will be within an inch or so and I'm doing the same just to be safe.
My tank is similar, with a couple of exceptions. I use just 2 graphite plate, anodes (front and back, although I see the advantage to the 2 on the sides). And I made my plastic milk crate basket narrower, and my back-side anode hangs from a rod that I can slide as close to the basket as I can. I fins that the pans clean much better with the anodes kept closer.
I've watched those videos and while I agree it's a nice looking setup and works effectively in my opinion with the money he spent on his tote, 4 c-clamps, exterior cable with 5 connectors, 4 jumper wires with 8 clamps, 2 plastic crates, pvc stand (tube, elbows and tees) and chain I've probably got less money in my 55 gal. plastic barrel lined 360* with a sheet of stainless steel. I hang pieces on S-hooks bent from 1/8" steel suspended from a piece of old broomstick layed across top of barrel. I've used this setup for 4 years and 500+ pieces with no degradation of the stainless and the only maintenance being occasionally scrubbing some scum off of the stainless with a long handled nylon brush and changing water once a year. My setup probably has the same footprint as his and will do pieces 20" across and 30" long. If you don't have a stainless liner you can also hang an anode from a separate hook till your able to locate one. If you have problem finding a cheap sheet of stainless look for metal scrappers in the "wanted" section of your local Craigslist. Just contact and tell them what your looking for and that you will pay more than the scrapyard will. My piece was thin enough so I could roll it just enough to go in barrel then let it expand back out to fit tightly against the sides.